Frequently Asked Questions

Resin bound mixes the aggregate with resin before laying, creating a porous, permeable surface where water drains through. Resin bonded applies resin to a solid base first, then scatters aggregate on top — it looks similar but is not permeable. This matters because planning rules in England require front garden driveways to drain naturally; resin bound satisfies this, resin bonded does not. It also means resin bound does not pool water or scatter loose stones.

Both are excellent options and the right choice depends on the property and how you use the drive. Resin bound gives a smooth, seamless surface with a contemporary look, is weed-resistant, and drains naturally. Block paving is traditional, allows individual blocks to be lifted for utility access, and is available in a wide range of laying patterns and colours. On sloping drives, block paving can offer slightly more texture underfoot. We talk through the pros and cons at the survey based on your specific situation.

Under permitted development rules, you do not need planning permission if the surface drains naturally — either through a permeable surface such as resin bound, or if the water drains to a lawn, border, or soakaway rather than directly to the road drain. If you plan to use a non-permeable surface with drainage to the road, you may need consent from your local council. Properties in conservation areas or listed buildings may have separate requirements. We check this at the survey and flag it if it applies to your property.

SuDS stands for Sustainable Urban Drainage Systems — the planning policy aimed at reducing surface water runoff. A surface is SuDS-compliant when it either allows water to drain through it (permeable, like resin bound) or directs runoff to a soakaway, lawn, or planted border rather than to a road drain. Block paving laid over a permeable sub-base with open joints can also be SuDS-compliant. If runoff goes straight to the sewer system, the surface is not SuDS-compliant and usually needs planning permission.

The North West gets more annual rainfall than most of England, and its coastal areas are also exposed to salt-laden air from the Irish Sea and the Mersey estuary. For driveways and patios this means drainage is particularly important — a surface that pools water accelerates frost damage in winter. We specify surfaces and sealers appropriate to the location: coastal sites (Southport, the Wirral coast, Crosby, Formby) need materials rated for salt exposure, while clay-heavy inland sites (Wigan, Leigh, Widnes) need deeper sub-bases to cope with seasonal ground movement.

A resin bound surface laid over a properly prepared and stable sub-base is resistant to frost damage because it is flexible enough to accommodate minor thermal movement. Cracking usually happens when the sub-base beneath it has failed — either because it was too shallow, not properly compacted, or laid over a surface that has since shifted. A resin bound overlay on a cracked or unstable base will follow the movement beneath it. This is why sub-base assessment is the first conversation we have.

Stone steps built on a proper concrete foundation — with correctly sized, level risers and treads bedded in mortar — should last a very long time with minimal maintenance. The steps most likely to fail early are those laid without adequate foundation depth, those with treads that allow water to pool (causing frost damage), or those using low-quality reconstituted stone that delaminate. We use natural sandstone, limestone, and quality reconstituted stone products and bed every step on a concrete base.

In most cases, garden steps and front approach steps are covered by permitted development and do not need planning permission. Exceptions include listed buildings, properties in designated conservation areas, and any work that affects a shared boundary. Chester, Heswall, and parts of the older Wirral and Liverpool conservation zones are areas where we may flag this at the survey — it is worth checking before work starts if your property is in a conservation area.

This depends on the surface type, how much sun or shade the drive gets, and the amount of traffic. Block paving in a shaded, damp position will grow moss faster than a south-facing resin driveway. As a general guide, most driveways benefit from a professional clean every few years, with annual jet washing to manage moss in between. Block paving joints should be re-sanded periodically — regular jet washing removes sand from the joints over time, which allows weeds in and allows the blocks to move. We assess this at each job.

The answer depends on whether the sub-base under the surface has failed. If the surface is rocking in patches, has sunk in areas, or is spreading at the edges, the sub-base has usually moved and restoration will not fix the underlying problem — it needs removing and rebuilding. If the surface is structurally sound but dirty, mossy, and with failed joints, restoration is a genuine option: clean, re-sand, and seal can add years to a sound surface. We give an honest assessment at the survey — restoration is only recommended when the sub-base justifies it.